You recently started woodworking and totally love it. Now you’re ready to take your mad DIY skillz to the next level? Well, the miter saw is an awesome tool to have in your workshop arsenal. This is the go-to tool cuts for crown molding, picture frames, door frames, window casings, decks, furniture, flooring — and that’s just a fraction of what it can do. When asked what their favorite tool in the shop is, a lot of folks say, “My miter saw! I love it!”
The miter saw is designed to cut different kinds of angles. If a board is flat on saw’s base, the cut across the wide part is called a miter. Hold the board vertical and set it against the saw’s fence, you’re cutting a bevel. Most saws cut from 90 to 45-degrees, but some can cut even steeper angles, up to 55 degrees.
Before you go to the store, know this: miter saws are NOT created equal. There are three types of miter saws on the market: miter saw, compound miter saw, and sliding compound miter saw. A compound miter can cut a bevel and a miter at the same time. It’s great for cutting things like crown molding. A sliding compound miter cuts multi-angles like a compound miter, but also has a sliding action that lets you cut even wider boards.
Miter saws also come in two sizes, 10″ and 12″, based on the diameter of the blade. The size you get depends on the work you anticipate doing, but know that the 12″ blade is able to cut thicker and wider than the 10″. For example, a 10″ miter saw will cut a 2×6 at 90 degrees and a 2×4 at 45-degrees, while the 12″ can cut a 2×8 at 90 degrees and a 2×6 at 45 degrees. A laser marker feature is also nice! So, before you lay down your money, think carefully about all the things you might use it for. It also stands to reason that a 12″ sliding compound miter saw will cost more than a 10″ compound.
Miter saws can take your DIY skills to the next level, but it’s important to make sure you follow some basic safety tips before starting your cuts.
Before You Cut! Safety Tips:
- Before the switch is thrown; safety glasses, ear buds, gloves, dust mask!
- Remove all distractions (kids, pets).
- Remove scraps and other foreign objects from the machine before operating; also remove loose chips along the way, after the blade stops.
- Keep a firm grip on the saw handle and on the work piece; make sure it is firmly up against the table and fence before cutting.
- Anticipate flying pieces– getting startled with a spinning blade in front of you could be bad.
- Never work with a dull blade.
- Don’t operate a saw without a blade guard.
- Never leave the machine until the blade comes to a full stop.
- When the board is cut all the way, release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop, then raise the blade. If the blade is still spinning when you lift, there is more apt to be flying pieces.
- Never start the saw when the blade is touching the wood; allow it to be at full speed before cutting.
- Never put your body in the path of the blade (sure, you say “duh” now); never let your arms cross while cutting.
- If the piece you’re working with is short, use clamps; don’t get your hands too close to the blade, stay at least 6″ away.
- Make sure your work piece is supported before cutting. More than half the length should be resting on the saw. You need to focus on your cut, not balancing the wood.
- Go slow when cutting knots; they can break up and shoot pieces.
- Make sure you’re not cutting through metal (nails and staples).
And if that weren’t enough, here are some more tips in FineWoodworking.com’s Miter Saw Safety Manual.
Tips On Operating a Miter Saw
- When working with small pieces of wood, cut with a chopping motion; when cutting a large piece, slide blade out, cut down and push back in.
- When marking your board, draw the line all the way across the stock, then drop the blade to the wood to check your alignment. Adjust the piece as needed before cutting.
- Go slow with bevel cuts, especially if you’re chopping with the blade as opposed to sliding.
- When first cutting your miter cuts, purposely cut slightly long and just a little at a time so you can readjust as you go. If you try to get right on the line, chances are good you’ll cut short.
- Always cut the factory end from a board before measuring for your final cut. This ensures better fitting parts.
- Let the saw do the work; don’t force the blade through the wood.
- More teeth means better quality cuts: Use a blade with more than 50 teeth for construction cuts, and with more than 90 teeth for fine cuts. For treated lumber, use a lower tooth count, even for fine cuts; the open spaces between the teeth clear the debris and puts less strain on the saw’s motor.
- If possible, cut one angle end of a part first, then mark the cut on the opposite end after you test fit the first cut.
- When making repetitive cuts, set up a stop block. For long boards, set the stop up next to the saw. For short cuts,draw a line on the saw. Use masking tape and a pencil to make the line. Then remove the tape when done. This is much more accurate and efficient than individually measuring each part.
- To speed up the cuts and increase their accuracy, cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood the height of the fence and the length of the saw. Attach it to the fence on both sides of the blade with double-face carpet tape. Then make a cut through the plywood. This will show you exactly where the saw blade will cut. Then move your marked board up to the edge of the cut for a perfect result.
As this is a serious purchase for a serious tool, I encourage you to surf operational videos, blogs and forums to get a well-rounded understanding of miter saws. When you’re ready to pull the trigger and shop for yours, be sure to make your first stop Harbor Freight Tools. They have all types and sizes of saws, safety gear, blades, stands and more!